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Posts Tagged ‘lace’

As far as knitting goes, I’ve got several other wips and, gladly, FOs! Each of them deserves an individual entry but before I could ever manage doing it, I’ve got some photos for one project I love most.

I started knitting this pair of gloves in spring this year, hoping to be able to submit it for Knitty’s early holiday knits. But, as always, I was distracted by several other projects. To make the matter slightly worse, a deep dark brown colour like that needs your extra attention, which I couldn’t afford sometimes. Only until September did I pick them up occasionally, with knitting done the week before the last.

It needs a name 1

It has lace. It has slip-stitch.

It needs a name 3

It has cable.

It needs a name 2

They are long!

I will try to finish up the pattern asap and offer the patter for sale–I do want to offer it for free but considering the amount of time I spent writing up, answering questions, and doing anything ever related to it, and I’ve never sold a pattern before, I’ll start with this one.

Before that, a name is needed for the pattern, and more photos should be taken. To be totally honest, I still have to tidy up yarn tails and everything. 🙂

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This post is about a knitting technique that I used for the fichu Afternoon Break. The aim of this technique is to allow the continous knitting of two different sections from the same starting point, without picking up stitches there. Once you get the first few stitches done, you’ll find how easy it could be! Eventually the technique will save you some time and result in a smooth transition! (or at least I hope you’ll think the same!)

You can use this technique on both sides, and I am showing it from the right side, because I spilt the neck band and the upper trim from the right side in Afternoon Break. Apart from the pair of needles you’re using, you’ll need two other spare needles, preferably of smaller sizes (they don’t have to be same size), for seperating those stitches.

1.
Tutorial

This is the beginning of a right side row. I have 14 stitches on the needle (10 st st and 2 edge stitches on both sides).

2.
Tutorial

(RS) Simply knit back and front of each stitch (increase one each stitch). 28 stitches on the needle.

3.
Tutorial

(WS) Use the first spare needle to transfer the first stich on the left needle. The use the second spare needle to transfer the second stitch. To show this clearly, in the picture, I put the first needle in front of the WS and the second needle behind it. The following picutres are for the purpose of showing the transfer step by step.

4.
Tutorial

Transfer the third stitch on the left needle to the first spare needle (front needle).

5.
Tutorial

Transfer the fourth stitch on the left needle to the second spare needle (back needle).

6.
Tutorial

Continue putting the odd-numbered onto the first spare needle and the even-numbered onto the second. This picture shows that I have transferred 8 stitches onto both needles: four onto each spare needles. At this point, you should feel at ease transferring stitches this way!

7.
Tutorial

After doing this the whole row, now you’ll have odd-numbered on the first spare/front needle and the even-numbered on the second spare/back needle, if seeing from the WS. The picture shows it from RS, so the first spare needle is on the back (the one with yarn tail). If you don’t like the feeling of dangling needles, feel free to transfer the non-working row to a strand of waste yarn. Now you’re ready to continue the knitting of different session!

8.
Tutorial

This picture is just showing what it looks like if knitting the back session first–it will leave you with a row of live stitch in front of the piece.

I hope this tutorial would be helpful. ^_^

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I know I will thank myself for keeping knitting notes, the sole purpose of this blog–I shall keep this blog alive! here are notes of the week.

*Few notes on Heartening

Last week, I wonder if I should knit another “Heartening”, so I can show you the slightly different version with the heart jointed. What harm can be done for just one more vest? Or better, making “Heartening” as a puff-sleeved, collared top just like Number 22 from the latest Vogue Knitting? I do have Soft Tweed in Twig enough for a sleeved top! I cast on after I found myself couldn’t sleep one night.

Making “Heartening” is fun. But even though the whole process is lovely, it would become dull had I gone through the same procedure again. I eventually didn’t survive the waistline and had my mind changed: Twig is a lovely shade and it would suit my boyfriend perfectly! Why didn’t I just do that but play with the same pattern?

Indeed so. I stopped after the waist shaping. But since I was with the WIP, I may as well knit a semi-swatch to show you the different Row 18 of the heart shaped cable pattern. The one on the right is Row 18* and the one on the left is Row 18. This semi-swatch is unblocked, so it looks a bit ugly, but enough to show their differences (I put some notes directly onto this shot on my flickr, please click to link to my flickr if needed).
heartening hearty shapes

If you like Row 18* more and you knit from the chart, please also read the pattern instruction first! The chart is showing the effect seeing from the right side, however, you will need to knit Row 18 from the wrong side!

And two picture showing FO done months ago.
Wintery stockingsLana Grossa wraparound

It seems I have the tendency to take photos after FOs are wore, and got felted? I post these pictures on my flickr first, but only manage to blog them here now. I am quite surprise to know people love the Highland Stockings! It’s absolutely gorgeous! It is quite a pity that Rowan didn’t provide a chart but with written instruction only. Moreover, Rowan put the skill level as most difficult one. Certainly reading the pattern is punishing to me so, as I put in another post, I charted them out when I decided to knit the stockings. I was convinced that had them put up charts the pattern would be popular.

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I had a stressful Christmas holiday this winter, overwhelmed by many events. Because of these events, I didn’t and couldn’t knit after I cast off the last minutes present on Christmas Day. Then on 2nd January, it seemed I could at least sit back and relax for some moments, so I decided to cast on for a new project for the new year!

Here’s the result: Heartening.
Heartening 1

Heartening 4Heartening 3
Isn’t it silly? *giggling*

I hope some of you will like this bold yet not too overwhelming vest. Anyway, it’s a quick project, and cost me 3 balls of Soft Tweed only. The knitting was done on 4th Jan, then I lightly blocked it, and took photos on 5th Jan, and wrote up the pattern!

I’ve been wanting to use this heart-shaped stitch pattern since I saw it on Vogue: Dictionary of Knitting Stitiches by Anne Matthews. The cable panel looks complicated but they are combinations of small cables. These easy cables make the vest the perfect project for a first-time cable knitter, or someone who’d like to learn cabling without a cable needle! The vest is knitted in round from waist up to armhole, then knitted in flat for upper front and back. The cable panel is placed immediately above the “waistline”, an eyelet row where you can add an optional ribbon. After shaping necks, use three-needle bind off for shoulders, then pick up stitches around neckline (including those on hold), and knit the collar. No seaming is required! You can adjust this pattern very easily to fit your own curve. And you can choose between two different heart shapes by knitting either Row 18 or Row 18* of the central panel.

However, this is the first time I am writing patterns for sizes other than XS, and my experiences wih larger sizes are very limited, so do forgive me that I couldn’t pretend to speak for other sizes. I planned to extend the pattern for bigger sizes by swatching, but, but, it is not possible for me to do so just now. Your feedbacks are most welcomed!

**Please do let me know if you’d like to reproduce/republish this pattern in any form or you are inspired by it.**

Heartening
(click to take you to Ravelry pattern page)

SIZE
XS/S [M, L, XL] (shown in size XS/S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 33[35.4, 39.4, 43.25] inches
Length: 20.5 [21.25, 22, 22.8] inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Rowan Classic Yarn Soft Tweed [56% Wool, 20% Viscose, 14% polyamide, 10% silk; 87 yd/ 80 m per 50g skein]; color: Bramble (shade 004); 3[4, 4, 5] skeins
[CC] Louisa Harding Kashmir DK [10% Cashmere, 55% Merino Wool, 35% Microfibre; 130 yd/ 119 m per 50g skein]; color: 01; about 2m
1 pair of 40-inch (or longer, I use a 60-inch pair) US #8-11/5mm-8mm circular needle (size to obtain gauge)
1 pair of 16-inch (or longer) circular needles in smaller size
1 pair of 16-inch (or longer) circular needles in still smaller size (optional)
Suitable length of ribbon or ribbon yarn. (optional)

GAUGE
12 sts/ 16 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

Rib pattern 1 (waist): K3, p2

Rib pattern 2 (collar): K1, p1

Decrease:
SSk after the marker and K2tog before it.

Increase:
Knit one stitch each from the stitch immediately after and before the marker by inserting needle into the right/left part of the stitch in the previous row.

Central panel:
Working over 20 sts. Cable panel are working on the central 16st between eyelet sections (2 sts each on both side of the cable). Please follow either the chart or the written instruction. Both the chart and the written instruction are for circular knitting and read from the right side. Work eyelet rows in symmetry (ie. either begin with: Yo, SSK, Cable, k2tog, yo, or K2tog, yo, cable, yo, SSK, and do the other the next odd row). Don’t worry if you started these vertical eyelets different than given chart/instruction, you will see how to achieve the symmetry when you go easily.

Heartening chart

Written instruction for the chart:
Preparation rows:
1 K2tog, yo, p6, k4, p6, yo, ssk
2 k2, p6, k4, p6, k2

1 Yo, ssk, p6, c4f, p6, k2tog, yo
2 K2, p6, k4, p6, k2
3 K2tog, yo, p5, c3b, c3f, p5, yo, ssk
4 K2, p5, k2, p2, k2, p5, k2
5 Yo, ssk, p4, c3b, p2, c3f, p4, k2tog, yo
6 K2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2
7 K2tog, yo, p3, c3b, p4, c3f, p3, yo, ssk
8 K2, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k2
9 Yo, ssk, p2, c3b, c3b, c3f, c3f, p2, k2tog, yo
10 K2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2
11 K2tog, yo, p1, c3b, c3b, p2, c3f, c3f, p1, yo, ssk
12 K2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2
13 Yo, ssk, p1, k1, c2f, c3f, p2, c3b, c2b, k1, p1, k2tog, yo
14 K2, p1, (k1, p1) twice, k2, p2, k2, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2
15 K2tog, yo, p1, k1, p1, c2f, c3f, c3b, c2b, p1, k1, p1, yo, ssk
16 K2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2
17 Yo, ssk, p1, c2f, c2b, p1, c4f, p1, c2f, c2b, p1, k2tog, yo
18 K2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, K2, p2, k2
(18*optional way for Row 18: K2, p2, c2f, p2, K4, p2, c2b, p2, k2. You will join the two lines framing the hart this way. This is not shown in pictures.)

Repeat rows 3-18 or 3-18* once.

Armhole decrease:
Work the 4 edge sts as garter st. Do the decrease from right side. After 4 edge sts, SSK.
Before 4 edge sts: k2tog.

PATTERN

Rib edge:
Cast on 95[105, 115, 125] st, join to begin working in rounds. K1, p2, then begins Rib pattern 1, continue to the end of the row. Place one marker on the first stitch of the row, and the 50th[56th, 60th, 66th] of the row, so you will have 48[54, 58, 64] sts for the front (between the two markers), and 45[51, 55, 59] for the back. You will do decrease, and later increase, before and after the two stitches. Continue in ribs for 9 other rows or until desired length.

St st waist shaping
Next row: Start St st, at the same time, decrease 4 sts in this row before and after the marker (marker, SSK, st sts, K2tog, marker, SSK, st sts, K2 tog). Work St st before the eyelet row in every 4th row for 3[3, 4, 4] more times, or until desired width. Work until the piece reach the position where you want to place the eyelet row.

Eyelet row (Waistline):
Yo, k2 tog throughout. Do the last 2 sts as yo, k, so the back will be even-numbered now. Knit 1 row. Move stitch markers onto this row if needed.

Begin the cable panel:
following either written instructions or the chart:
Knit 11[12, 15, 18] sts, Cable panel, knit to the end of the row. AT THE SAME TIME, increase for bust on row 3 of the pattern, following the increase note as in the pattern notes. Increase on every 4[4, 3, 2]row for 3[3, 4, 5]more times, or until desired width. Continue st st for the back.

When piece measures 31[31, 32, 33] cm, begin armhole shaping and start to work back and forth.

Front:
Bind off 2[2, 3, 3] sts at a time, work in pattern until the second stitch marker. Knit this stitch. Turn. Next row: Bind off 2[2, 3, 3] sts at a time. Knit the K st and purl the P st. Then do the armhole decrease as in the pattern note. 1 st at each end on every row 2[2, 3, 3] times, then on every other row 3[3, 4, 4] times. Work until the end of Cable panel. Continue to work armhole and lace lines as before, and first work those 16 sts between lace lines as purl st for 4[4, 6, 6] rows, then knit across for 4[4, 6, 6] rows. Start Neckline: Hold center 10[10. 12. 12] st on a holder or a length or wast yarn. Left front (RS): continue in pattern and k2tog on the last two sts for neckline. Decrease on RS until there are 10[10, 12, 12] sts remains. Shape the right front in reverse.

Back:
Bind off in the same fashion as the front. Decrease until 38[] sts on the needles. Work the armhole shaping and St st in between until 2 rows more than front before shaking the neckline. Shape the neckline as the front.

FINISHING
Using 3 needle bind-off to join shoulders and bind off. Using a pair of smaller needles, pick up 24 [26, 28, 30]st on each side, between those on hold. Join and work Rib pattern 2, using this pair of needles. After 4cm in ribs, change to smaller needles if you’d like to have a snug-fit collars, as shown in pictures. After the collar reaches the desired length, break yarn. Join CC, holding two strings together, and bind off loosely with them.

Block lightly.

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Finally I am in, on Ravelry! (I am ambling there. ^_^ ) How exciting that there are some interesting groups there. For example, the group Exotic Knitting Styles (link for those on Ravelry only at this moment) is exactly what I’d love to join because that’s a group for those who neither knits English way nor continental way!! Really the last thing I’d like to hear from people is “you don’t do the stitch properly!” So, excluding Sunday brunch at Carluccio’s, I spent my time either on Ravelry or on a pair of simple ribbed socks since my invite arrived on Sat 19: 11.

But I should at least write something on Cressida, a bolero I’d fallen in love when I saw the pattern online.

Cressida bolero!Cressida bolero!

The bolero’s done at least one week ago, but I still haven’t (1) blocked it, (2) hid all tails, and (3) sew buttons on it. The metal button on the second pic is cheated, with the little help from dear pins.

The pattern is designed for Rowan’s Soft Lux, an aran weight yarn. But I decided to use Rowan’s kid soft for it. Kid soft looks thinner than Soft Lux, but the mohair and lambswool mix makes it chunkier than Soft Lux. The result is, it knits up quickly, the garment is lighter (only 3.3 to 3.4 balls were used), warmer, and softer!

Since I’ve got 5 balls of Kid Soft, I decided to use them up and make a stole-ish garment:
Kid soft stole

that’s the drop-stitch and purse stitch project I was mentioning the other day. ^^

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I spent sometime today to knit my first sock, then I put it on and play with camera. My right foot has an odd angle and looks fat in this shot but it was fun to take picture as such!! It reminds me of cats chasing yarn tails. ^^

KIP-socks

It must be the long written instruction on short row shaping that barred me from sock knittings. It was surprisingly easy and straightforward when I went to the heel part. It seems sock knitting is indeed very addictive (though I do prefer to save 4ply knitting for blythe knits)! It’s so easy to just get a stitch pattern you like then put it on your sock!! I don’t think I will be using someone else pattern for my next pair because I was already flipping over my stitch dictionaries and online photos (like this site) to get ideas for my second pair, and a third pair! Probably plus one pair for someone and another pair for yet another one. The list grows quick, much quicker than I can manage. And what yarns should I use for them! (why there are still 3000 people ahead of me in the ravelry waiting list? *sigh*)

I plan to piece together the knitted Cressida bolero this week but my sewing is much slower than knitting, so this hasn’t done. Must do it soon.

(afterthought: I think I’ll use some RYC’s cashcotton for the Highland socks in the latest Rowan magazine, minus pompom… or this pair look great, too! )

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It seems I will have to keep away from flickr for few weeks—I’ll keep posting photos but I may not allow myself to visit all your streams, like good old days.

It seems I, too, have many knitting notes to jot down but too little time (I was tempted to write “too” for three times in this short sentence. Too many XX but too little time…). But I have, gradually at least, learned when to knit and when not to.

It seems I must be tired of dealing with words during the day so I prefer to write simple sentences here.

Anyway, here’s what for today:

my first encounter with pashmina!

The pattern book underneath my knit-in-progress is Linea Rossa 3, the latest pattern from Linea Rossa that I was so eagered to get hold of last week. I was pleasantly surprised when Parcel Force buzzed last Friday and handed us a box, with 2 books I ordered from the website dacadi. It was a speedy service: The order was placed on late night 25th, they shipped my patterns on 26th, then arrived on 28th just before I went out. And they are located in Germany! If you were considering getting knitty products from Germany, I would for sure recommend the site. You don’t even need to create an account with them, just to fill-in the order and the web will direct you to paypal.

I’ll certainly talk about this pattern book more in the near future. At this moment, I must say the presentation in Linea Rossa 2 is better than 3. The model in 2 is probably the most beautiful knitwear model in my humble opinion.

Here we swift to Linea Rossa 2, and the little swatch just above the pattern book: it is a sleeve I am making! I know I will have to negotiate with the pattern a bit, to make it 2 size smaller than given to suit me, but I can’t stop myself knitting it, once the puzzle (given by errata) has solved, partially. I finally take one ball of pashmina with me on Saturday and started the cast-on.

The yarn is exquisite just by look, and soft by touch. What I didn’t know, before the cast-on, was it is beautiful to work with: for the first time in my life, I prefer to slow down my knitting, just to make sure I have sensed every move of each stitch. For this reason, the top will take long to make. I think I care not for once. ☺ I do regret not to buy two lots when I had the chance.

(ps. by the time I typed this entry, the sleeve has grown to 10cm. not quick, you see.)

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