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Posts Tagged ‘cable’

As far as knitting goes, I’ve got several other wips and, gladly, FOs! Each of them deserves an individual entry but before I could ever manage doing it, I’ve got some photos for one project I love most.

I started knitting this pair of gloves in spring this year, hoping to be able to submit it for Knitty’s early holiday knits. But, as always, I was distracted by several other projects. To make the matter slightly worse, a deep dark brown colour like that needs your extra attention, which I couldn’t afford sometimes. Only until September did I pick them up occasionally, with knitting done the week before the last.

It needs a name 1

It has lace. It has slip-stitch.

It needs a name 3

It has cable.

It needs a name 2

They are long!

I will try to finish up the pattern asap and offer the patter for sale–I do want to offer it for free but considering the amount of time I spent writing up, answering questions, and doing anything ever related to it, and I’ve never sold a pattern before, I’ll start with this one.

Before that, a name is needed for the pattern, and more photos should be taken. To be totally honest, I still have to tidy up yarn tails and everything. 🙂

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I had a stressful Christmas holiday this winter, overwhelmed by many events. Because of these events, I didn’t and couldn’t knit after I cast off the last minutes present on Christmas Day. Then on 2nd January, it seemed I could at least sit back and relax for some moments, so I decided to cast on for a new project for the new year!

Here’s the result: Heartening.
Heartening 1

Heartening 4Heartening 3
Isn’t it silly? *giggling*

I hope some of you will like this bold yet not too overwhelming vest. Anyway, it’s a quick project, and cost me 3 balls of Soft Tweed only. The knitting was done on 4th Jan, then I lightly blocked it, and took photos on 5th Jan, and wrote up the pattern!

I’ve been wanting to use this heart-shaped stitch pattern since I saw it on Vogue: Dictionary of Knitting Stitiches by Anne Matthews. The cable panel looks complicated but they are combinations of small cables. These easy cables make the vest the perfect project for a first-time cable knitter, or someone who’d like to learn cabling without a cable needle! The vest is knitted in round from waist up to armhole, then knitted in flat for upper front and back. The cable panel is placed immediately above the “waistline”, an eyelet row where you can add an optional ribbon. After shaping necks, use three-needle bind off for shoulders, then pick up stitches around neckline (including those on hold), and knit the collar. No seaming is required! You can adjust this pattern very easily to fit your own curve. And you can choose between two different heart shapes by knitting either Row 18 or Row 18* of the central panel.

However, this is the first time I am writing patterns for sizes other than XS, and my experiences wih larger sizes are very limited, so do forgive me that I couldn’t pretend to speak for other sizes. I planned to extend the pattern for bigger sizes by swatching, but, but, it is not possible for me to do so just now. Your feedbacks are most welcomed!

**Please do let me know if you’d like to reproduce/republish this pattern in any form or you are inspired by it.**

Heartening
(click to take you to Ravelry pattern page)

SIZE
XS/S [M, L, XL] (shown in size XS/S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 33[35.4, 39.4, 43.25] inches
Length: 20.5 [21.25, 22, 22.8] inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Rowan Classic Yarn Soft Tweed [56% Wool, 20% Viscose, 14% polyamide, 10% silk; 87 yd/ 80 m per 50g skein]; color: Bramble (shade 004); 3[4, 4, 5] skeins
[CC] Louisa Harding Kashmir DK [10% Cashmere, 55% Merino Wool, 35% Microfibre; 130 yd/ 119 m per 50g skein]; color: 01; about 2m
1 pair of 40-inch (or longer, I use a 60-inch pair) US #8-11/5mm-8mm circular needle (size to obtain gauge)
1 pair of 16-inch (or longer) circular needles in smaller size
1 pair of 16-inch (or longer) circular needles in still smaller size (optional)
Suitable length of ribbon or ribbon yarn. (optional)

GAUGE
12 sts/ 16 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

Rib pattern 1 (waist): K3, p2

Rib pattern 2 (collar): K1, p1

Decrease:
SSk after the marker and K2tog before it.

Increase:
Knit one stitch each from the stitch immediately after and before the marker by inserting needle into the right/left part of the stitch in the previous row.

Central panel:
Working over 20 sts. Cable panel are working on the central 16st between eyelet sections (2 sts each on both side of the cable). Please follow either the chart or the written instruction. Both the chart and the written instruction are for circular knitting and read from the right side. Work eyelet rows in symmetry (ie. either begin with: Yo, SSK, Cable, k2tog, yo, or K2tog, yo, cable, yo, SSK, and do the other the next odd row). Don’t worry if you started these vertical eyelets different than given chart/instruction, you will see how to achieve the symmetry when you go easily.

Heartening chart

Written instruction for the chart:
Preparation rows:
1 K2tog, yo, p6, k4, p6, yo, ssk
2 k2, p6, k4, p6, k2

1 Yo, ssk, p6, c4f, p6, k2tog, yo
2 K2, p6, k4, p6, k2
3 K2tog, yo, p5, c3b, c3f, p5, yo, ssk
4 K2, p5, k2, p2, k2, p5, k2
5 Yo, ssk, p4, c3b, p2, c3f, p4, k2tog, yo
6 K2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2
7 K2tog, yo, p3, c3b, p4, c3f, p3, yo, ssk
8 K2, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k2
9 Yo, ssk, p2, c3b, c3b, c3f, c3f, p2, k2tog, yo
10 K2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2
11 K2tog, yo, p1, c3b, c3b, p2, c3f, c3f, p1, yo, ssk
12 K2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2
13 Yo, ssk, p1, k1, c2f, c3f, p2, c3b, c2b, k1, p1, k2tog, yo
14 K2, p1, (k1, p1) twice, k2, p2, k2, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2
15 K2tog, yo, p1, k1, p1, c2f, c3f, c3b, c2b, p1, k1, p1, yo, ssk
16 K2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2
17 Yo, ssk, p1, c2f, c2b, p1, c4f, p1, c2f, c2b, p1, k2tog, yo
18 K2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, K2, p2, k2
(18*optional way for Row 18: K2, p2, c2f, p2, K4, p2, c2b, p2, k2. You will join the two lines framing the hart this way. This is not shown in pictures.)

Repeat rows 3-18 or 3-18* once.

Armhole decrease:
Work the 4 edge sts as garter st. Do the decrease from right side. After 4 edge sts, SSK.
Before 4 edge sts: k2tog.

PATTERN

Rib edge:
Cast on 95[105, 115, 125] st, join to begin working in rounds. K1, p2, then begins Rib pattern 1, continue to the end of the row. Place one marker on the first stitch of the row, and the 50th[56th, 60th, 66th] of the row, so you will have 48[54, 58, 64] sts for the front (between the two markers), and 45[51, 55, 59] for the back. You will do decrease, and later increase, before and after the two stitches. Continue in ribs for 9 other rows or until desired length.

St st waist shaping
Next row: Start St st, at the same time, decrease 4 sts in this row before and after the marker (marker, SSK, st sts, K2tog, marker, SSK, st sts, K2 tog). Work St st before the eyelet row in every 4th row for 3[3, 4, 4] more times, or until desired width. Work until the piece reach the position where you want to place the eyelet row.

Eyelet row (Waistline):
Yo, k2 tog throughout. Do the last 2 sts as yo, k, so the back will be even-numbered now. Knit 1 row. Move stitch markers onto this row if needed.

Begin the cable panel:
following either written instructions or the chart:
Knit 11[12, 15, 18] sts, Cable panel, knit to the end of the row. AT THE SAME TIME, increase for bust on row 3 of the pattern, following the increase note as in the pattern notes. Increase on every 4[4, 3, 2]row for 3[3, 4, 5]more times, or until desired width. Continue st st for the back.

When piece measures 31[31, 32, 33] cm, begin armhole shaping and start to work back and forth.

Front:
Bind off 2[2, 3, 3] sts at a time, work in pattern until the second stitch marker. Knit this stitch. Turn. Next row: Bind off 2[2, 3, 3] sts at a time. Knit the K st and purl the P st. Then do the armhole decrease as in the pattern note. 1 st at each end on every row 2[2, 3, 3] times, then on every other row 3[3, 4, 4] times. Work until the end of Cable panel. Continue to work armhole and lace lines as before, and first work those 16 sts between lace lines as purl st for 4[4, 6, 6] rows, then knit across for 4[4, 6, 6] rows. Start Neckline: Hold center 10[10. 12. 12] st on a holder or a length or wast yarn. Left front (RS): continue in pattern and k2tog on the last two sts for neckline. Decrease on RS until there are 10[10, 12, 12] sts remains. Shape the right front in reverse.

Back:
Bind off in the same fashion as the front. Decrease until 38[] sts on the needles. Work the armhole shaping and St st in between until 2 rows more than front before shaking the neckline. Shape the neckline as the front.

FINISHING
Using 3 needle bind-off to join shoulders and bind off. Using a pair of smaller needles, pick up 24 [26, 28, 30]st on each side, between those on hold. Join and work Rib pattern 2, using this pair of needles. After 4cm in ribs, change to smaller needles if you’d like to have a snug-fit collars, as shown in pictures. After the collar reaches the desired length, break yarn. Join CC, holding two strings together, and bind off loosely with them.

Block lightly.

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There were so many knitty things worth mentioning since the last post here, but browsing around Ravelry had taken up nearly my online quota hence the no-post. (I am ambling there.) It is indeed that every serious knitter should make Ravelry a must visit.

I’ll start with my third pair of socks. They are stockings to be precise! The pattern, “Highland stockings,” is published on Rowan 42, using kid classic. I’ve been wanting it when I first spot the pattern, but back then, I haven’t demystified the secret of sock knitting, so my eyes were set on the Rannoch dress only.

Since I am bored with the second sock of my first pair, and the temperature dropped suddenly this week, I decided to cast on my third pair. (My second pair were long finished…my first finished pair of socks) My kid classic are reserved for the dress, so I am using Rowan classic’s Soft Lux instead (uuurrhh, I’ve got tons of them…). I’ve seen so many woolly leggy recently on London’s street, so why shouldn’t I?
highland stocking--all cabled uphighland stocking-moss diamondhighland stockings-cast on

I charted the whole pattern (I cannot knit with written pattern like that. I prefer to labour myself charting first, then harvest the enjoyment of chart knitting), then started the first one from toe-up. I’ve tried different methods of toe-up knitting, for example, the magic cast-on and the Eastern cast-on. But what I like most is my own way—there must be someone writing about it before me though. Long tail cast-on is my preferred method, and I am using it for socks, too! It’s actually very straightforward, if you use two needles while doing the long tail cast-on. What you have to do, for toe-up socks, is just casting-on stitchs, alternatively, onto both needles, so you would have, says, the odd numbered on the needle closer to you and the even numbered the one away from you (instead of on both needles). After both needles have enough stitches, you just have to carry on the first row knitting in the round. Simple enough!

The pattern is very pretty (albeit girlish if not childish…). They are just a combination of ribs, cables (very simple ones!), moss stitch, and single row bobbles!! Even some dislike making bobble would not object making these (because they aren’t real bobble stitch!). Don’t let Rowan’s long instruction barred you from knitting a beautiful pair! Mine will be a long pair, up to the thigh…

I also start knitting my first top from Linea Rossa 3:
a WIP
It was started as a knit-in-the dark project, and a side project of my Pashmina pull-over.

Speaking about Pashmina, I got a parcel from German, from the generous fbz, that packed some balls of Pashmina! I’ll be using them for the felted sleeves of this wrap-around two yarns.

And I have created a Ravelry group, Lana Grossa, mainly because I’d really love to see other works using Linea Rossa patterns! Please join us there!

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My first ever sock (singular it is) is finished after lunch today. I washed it immediately to ease uneven stitches. It is laid flat for drying now so there isn’t a photo just yet. (I skip blocking this time because I believe flat drying will do equally good for it.)

I didn’t plan to do the cable as the original design. But I changed my mind when I finished the first repeat after the heel. After all, C4B and C4F are just a little twist when you start doing it, so why not? (No cable needles for me. No, I don’t use them at all when you can just manage the cable perfectly on the working pair. Not even making something like C24B. Cable knitting in this fashion can’t be easier: that’s one of the knitting techniques I will personally recommend.) So I twisted the selvage space between the pattern since.

Because the sock is meant to be knee-high so I had to increase at certain length, to accommodate the shape of my leg… I wish I would think of this at an ealier point! I then incorporated these increases to the cable areas, so I have C8B and C8F once, then combos of C4B and C4F on these areas to form my most fav argyle shape of cables.

And this brings me to a picutre I took some days ago, though I just uploaded it.
a swatch that is not exactly a swatch

This was a swatch I did when I got the yarn somedays ago, a beautiful apple green shade of Stella from Debbie Bliss. The pattern is a drop stitch pattern called “Cross stitch.” Because I am a drop stich fan, I had planned to use it long time ago but just haven’t done so, so I did it by way of swatching (the result was 16st for 8cm on suitable size of needles to justify the action). But for some reasons, I neither used Stella for the designated project nor used the cross stitch pattern. What I did was putting togeher purse stitch (or purse Fagotting as shown here) and “Openwork cross stitch” for that project. I was using Rowan kid soft for it, from those left over of my Cressida bolero.

But why the “Cross stitch” and cables are related? Because doing the cross stitch is similar to cable knitting without a cable needle: just the cable is picking up stitches as they are but cross sitch picking up from inside loops! I know this sounds confusing at first, but that’s the way I am doing them.

Ps. underneath the swatch is “Vogue Dictionary of Knitting Stitches” by Anne Matthew, one of my knitting dictionaries. I love dictionaries. They feed my needs for constant knitty meditation.

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